OK, what would Tucson be without Mexican Food? Some might argue that it wouldn’t be nearly as interesting, and it’s hard to imagine our city without the rich legacy that’s been developed around food.

Carlotta Flores is the matriarch of the business minded family that runs the El Charro restaurant. She oversees much of the operation of this local institution, spending time with customers out front, as well as at the back end making sure that the kitchen is up to her standards.

She says that the food at El Charro is based on the unique cultural traditions of our community. “I think here in Tucson we have a very fortunate situation because most people here make really good Mexican food,” she says, and this ensures that the competition keeps everyone on their toes.

The carne seca is the house specialty at El Charro, and the drying process makes it uniquely regional and difficult to replicate in other parts of the country that lack the intense sun. The beef in this dish is marinated and then set to dry in wire cages on the roof of the downtown restaurant. Carlotta points out that there is no oil added to the finished dish and that “carne seca is something you either like or you don’t.” She says that the flavor is intense and because it’s cooked outside it is subject to the fluctuations of the season.

The downtown courthouse location is probably the one that most people are familiar with, and it’s the small kitchen of that landmark that has served as the model for the newer versions of El Charro. It’s also the origin of what has now become the “El Charro” brand. Moving forward for El Charro now means growth, and brand management. This business development model for a local eatery is unusual and not the typical path for our local Favorite Mexican restaurants in the old pueblo. However, Flores points out that the recipes remain the priority and an important part of her work revolves around ensuring that the consistency is maintained in the kitchen.

Story by Luis Carrión